Day 32 - Hemmingway's Out of Reach

We visited Papa's home, Finca Vigía, in San Francisco de Paula, Cuba. 

He lived there from 1939 to 1960.  Hemingway wrote much of For Whom the Bell Tolls and all of The Old Man and the Sea on these grounds. 

After his suicide, Mary Hemingway deeded the home and its furnishings to the Cuban government.  Later, the U.S. National Trust for Historic Preservation deemed it near collapse.  In 2007, after extensive restoration by the Cuban government, it was reopened in 2007 for tourists. 

The only way to see it is through its open windows and doors. 

Day 31 - Counting

Mercado de Cuatro Caminos is the island's largest farmers market.  This old hall takes up an entire square block.  Live and dead animals, fruit, vegetables, and beans.  Still, no computers. 

Day 30 - Father's Day

Fathers come in all forms.

Day 29 - Cinema is Life

The true meaning of film maker Jen-Luc Godard's statement, “cinema is life” will remain an open ended mystery.  Who can disagree that life is much more vibrant and interesting in person? 

Day 28 - Browse

The open air market on Plaza de Armas is a nice place to browse antiquarian books and talk with the local sellers.  It's one of the oldest and most important plazas in Havana Vieja, originally built in 1516.  The stalls are open Wednesday - Saturday.

Day 27 - Portrait of an Eater

OK, this isn't really a self-portrait, but if I was to do one, food might be involved.

I had 3 great meals in Cuba.  Though there are some fabulous restaurants in Havana, most of them overcook the seafood, pork or chicken.  That is, if what is stated on the menu is even available.  We only ran into this once, on the Malecón.   None of the fish on the menu were available, due to a shortage but they had replacements.  I think one of them was called a dog fish, also known as a cat shark or a nurse shark.  I had the marlin, thinking of Hemmingway's Old Man and the Sea.  At this point in time, I do not believe Cuba is known for it's great food.

Here at La Torre, an overpriced restaurant with so-so food, one can enjoy a panoramic view of Havana from its 36th floor, in air conditioning (note Donna's coat and our sleeping companion!) 

Day 26 - Perspective

Havana stood once as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It's colonial architectural influenced by the Spanish, Moorish, Roman, Itallian and Greek culture.  Christopher Columbus called Cuba the "Loveliest land ever beheld by human eyes."

This, once a stunning mansion, now crumbles in ruins yet remains someone's home.

Day 25 - Satellites of Love Surround Us

Havana's broad esplanade, roadway, and seawall stretching almost 5 miles in length is called the Malecón.  It is a popular place for lovers.

24 - The Search for Meaning

Every travel adventure includes an exploration of life's meaning.  Each observation and experience of a new culture adds another piece to the answer.

Cuba reminded me that caring and supportive relationships with others, and good health, were top on my list.  Next, lightness and serendipity.  I found this and other peacocks and peahens walking the grounds of the Fototeca, Cuba's central institution for photography.  Fototeca As for serendipity, we were there at the same time as a couple of curators from the Getty Museum, looking at the work of Cuban photographers.

Day 23 - No Apologies

I saw what looked like a peaceful, sweet dog laying in a grassy medium near the waterfront in Havana.  My first impulse was walk over and pet it, but my mind advised caution.  I snapped this frame on the third segment of my approach, previously greeted by less powerful snarls.  Clearly, this was my last warning.

Cuba has many homeless dogs and cats.  The Association for the Protection of Animals - Cuba (APAC - Varadero) is dedicated to providing health care and homes for wandering animals.  They also spay and neuter the pets of Cubans. 

If you are visiting the country and want to adopt a pet to bring home,  you can only do it through the APAC organization in Varadero.  Their site is APAC - Cuba

Day 22 - Phone Call

What would we do without telephones?

President Raul Castro lifted the ban on cell phones late March 2008.  Previously, foreigners had to sign contracts in their name, for Cuban citizens.  I was told that all the cell phones owned by Cubans are used ones brought in by tourists.  The service, naturally, is very expensive for the average citizen.

Day 21 - Sullen Ride

After leaving the Necroplis Cristabol Colon graveyard we soon realized we were too far out of the city for an available taxi.  A driver noticed our delemma and offered a ride. 

He told us that when the Pope came to visit Cuba, he was "hired" to paint a religious fresco in a public building.  He became somewhat famous for it, since it was so beautiful.  Unfortunately, right after the Pope left, Castro had it painted over.  Our driver was hoping it would remain, after he had put so much work and love in his creation. 

Day 20 - Forever

What lasts forever in the material realm of this world? 

Necropolis Cristobal Colon cemetery, outside of Havana city, is home to around two million graves, including many famous Cuba political figures.  But even a grave is not a forever thing here. Due to the limitation of space for grave sites, many of the dead are exhumed and returned to their families to make way for new residents.    

Day 19 - Jungle Gratitude

Between the eastern part of the Guaniguanico mountain range and Pinar del Rio, and the provinces of Havana, lies the Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve.  The rainforest had been cleared in this area but parts of it are being replanted while others are used for agriculture.  This area was the site of the first major coffee plantation in the New World.  Some small farms still exist, many of them producing shade grown coffee.   

18 - Sonrisa Bonita

This woman, like other costumed models in Old Town Havana, poses for pesos.  But like everyone I met in Cuba, hers isn't just a smile for the camera, it's a smile from her soul. 

Day 17 - Southwest of Havana

Pinar del Rio is a province and city southwest of Havana.   The province encompasses three mountain ranges, a barrier reef with 30 premier diving sites, hot springs, a national park, Biosphere Reserve, and fertile farm land.   Many accomplished artists and athletes hail from Pinar del Rio, including  major league baseball players like Alexei Fernando Ramírez.  He plays second base and shortstop for the Chicago White Sox.

Day 16 - La Escalera

In this ramshackle cement building, elderly and children are among those who use this staircase day and night.  Then they walk one of two planks, that barely cover the flooring frame, to their apartments.   Walking up a spiral staircase with no rail was not as nerve wracking for me as carefully moving across the second story to an apartment while looking at the the floor below me and, to my side, no barrier to the courtyard below. 

Day 15 - Message

This is the first time I've traveled somewhere and saw there wasn't a clock for time in the U. S.  The reason here is obvious.  This is a troubling message, from a neighbor approximately 90 miles away. 

Day 14 - Great Moments

Again, the music in Havana has a viral quality and movement is one of the main symptoms experienced by the listener, as you can see in this short clip I took: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NZeZs0ajJg

Day 13 - Difficulty Concentrating on One Subject

I traveled to Pinar del Rio Province, known for it's tobacco fields.  Seeing a small settlement, we stopped the bus and walked up the road. As in the city, all one has to do is be open and receptive and Cubans will share a conversation and maybe even invite you into their home.  At one point,  I just sat on the roadside and shot what passed by.

Day 12 - 2X2

The people of Havana love their dogs.  I saw a few different breeds, like these two young men are carrying but it appears the most beloved is the Dachshund.

According to the blog: Daily Dachshund and Dog News, they work hard for their living.  http://www.dailydachshundanddognews.com/2008/02/cuban-dachshunds-ponder-castros.html

Day 11 - Perspective

If all lines of perspective converge at one point, how powerful can the convergence of artistic outflow be when some artists are kept imprisoned behind a political cloak?

Day 10 - Clouds

I found the clouds in Cuba to display especially beautiful through the clean air and against the turquoise blue sky.  They offer a very welcome respite from the strong Caribbean sun.

The weather doesn't fluctuate much season to season, ranging from 68 in the evening to 77 during the day.  Rains falls much in the summer and dries out in the winter.  You can count on a hurricane between June and November with winds up to 155 miles per hour!